Category: plant disease

　　Musk lily and we often say that the lily (details) is not a species, musk lily’s flower colour white, fragrant flowers, economic value is very high. Musk lilies can not only be used for potting ornamental, or a very good cut flower material. Musk lily is bulb spherical or nearly spherical, so artificial propagation can choose to divide the ball, scale and sowing method.

Musk lily

　　Splitting

　　In the process of growth, new bulbs are gradually formed on the stem axis of the bulb (mother bulb). Generally, each ball can be divided into 1-3 or more small balls after one year of cultivation. The small balls are harvested in autumn and stored in sand until the second spring planting, or can be planted in deep soil in autumn.

　　Scale

　　Dry the mature and robust bulbs, peel off the scales from the stem, and take cuttings in April. Cuttings depth to the top slightly exposed can be. Generally spring cuttings after 2-4 months, most of the scales will be rooted and leaves, and in the base of the scales grow small bulbs, at this time can be transplanted. Propagation with scales to flowering, generally need to cultivate 3 years -4 years.

　　Sowing

　　After the capsule is ripe, take out the seeds and sow them immediately, and the sown seedlings can bloom in 2-3 years.

Monarch Orchid

　　Many flower lovers choose to breed orchids mainly because it not only has a high ornamental value, its life expectancy is also up to several decades. And during the breeding period the most worthwhile flower friends look forward to is the blooming time once a year, of course, there are a few monarch orchids are blooming twice a year or more times, but it is relatively rare. However, many flower friends will reflect such a problem, sometimes not wait until the flowering time, monarch orchids appear rotten roots, so the cause of monarch orchid rotten roots where? How to solve this kind of problem?

　　First, the reasons for the rotten roots of monarchs

　　Junziran is fleshy roots, due to environmental conditions and improper maintenance and other reasons caused by ground root rot is mainly the following three:

　　1. Use of unrotted organic fertiliser or over-fertilisation of fertiliser produces high temperature when it is fermented in the pot to burn the roots.

　　2. Too much watering and poor soil permeability is just a fleshy root long-term pro-soaking in the lack of oxygen in the soil and gradually decay.

　　3. Improperly configured proportion of culture soil, resulting in potting soil slate poor permeability pots of long-term water to the root maceration.

　　Second, the prevention and control measures of the root rot of monarch orchids

　　1. Improve the quality of nutrient soil

　　Nutritional soil permeability is not good; soil quality is too ripe or too raw, in the preparation of nutritional soil before the use of crassus leaves, can not be too corrosive and can not be too raw, if the use of raw crassus leaves are not rotted preparation of nutrient soil, loaded into pots after fermentation will produce heat; but the use of crassus leaves are too rotted, add the amount of river sand particles is small, so that the soil is loaded into pots very quickly into the mud, in the soil viscous ﹑ water content of large and not easy to evaporate, the permeability of the poor conditions are easy to rot. Under the conditions of easy root rot, many times bacteria from the wound into, so change the pot should pay attention to not hurt the leaves, root. All of these factors will make the root system began to produce local discolouration, rot, serious in a short period of time the entire root system all rot.

　　2. Adjust the amount of fertiliser and watering moderately

　　Fertiliser can’t be too much, otherwise it will produce heat to burn the root system and cause rot. Watering should also be moderate, too much will make the nutrient soil water content is too large, poor permeability, root respiratory difficulties, resulting in root rot. Be careful not to water the heart of the orchid.

Monarch orchid

　　3.Placement of nutrient soil with bacterial reproduction

　　High temperature and humid environment should prevent bacterial reproduction and infestation of pathogens, in this environment, bacteria multiply and directly attack the root system and cause root rot. Therefore, in the summer and autumn high temperature season, fertilization and overwatering, it is easy to appear root rot. It is necessary to strengthen the cooling and ventilation, control the mechanical damage caused by man in the high temperature season, and spray drugs in time to prevent pests from biting, so as to reduce the propagation and spread of the disease. Sometimes the germs overwinter in the soil with the disease residues, and the soil must be sterilised when changing the soil in the spring.

　　The planting process of monarchs should be frequently observed, and any rotten roots found should be treated immediately. Take out the plant, remove the rotten roots, rinse the roots with potassium permanganate water with a concentration of 1% for sterilisation, or apply some charcoal powder to the affected area, and sunlight the roots in the greenhouse for about 30 minutes. If the rotten roots are more than 50% or all of them are rotted, use the above method to treat them and then catalyse the roots with river sand. Rooting temperature should be higher than the usual temperature, generally controlled at 22 ~ 30 ℃, so that after 2 months or so will produce new roots, and then transplanted to the nutrient soil pot.

　　Suggestions: Keep some soil at home, the soil should be sterilised and exposed to sunlight, because monarch orchids need to change the soil once a year, it is recommended to change the soil in the warm spring and autumn seasons, while changing the soil, it is also necessary to cut off the rotting and dry roots, otherwise it is difficult for the water to reach the roots. After replacing the soil, water it thoroughly, the water can choose rainwater or snow water, of course, you can use tap water if you don’t have it, but tap water is recommended to be properly stored for a few days before watering the flowers. In short, usually as long as you take a little time to take care of the monarch orchid, the monarch orchid will not be rotting the roots of the situation occurs.

Jasmine

　　The reason why jasmine is so hot is because it has extremely high ornamental, edible, medicinal and economic value. It is both an ingredient in floral teas for the tea market, an extract in essential oils for skincare products, and can even play an important role in herbal medicine. Because of this, the breeding of jasmine gradually increased, but the scientific breeding of the flower is very few people, especially in the winter originally vibrant jasmine suddenly withered and died, so that many newcomers to the defence. So what are the reasons for the death of jasmine in winter? How to correctly breed it in the cold winter?

　　First, winter jasmine death causes

　　1. Frost damage

　　When the temperature (room temperature) is below 3 ℃ ~ 5 ℃, the physiological function of the plant is damaged; when it falls below 3 ℃, it will cause the death of the whole plant.

　　2. Too wet potting soil

　　When the temperature (room temperature) below 10 ℃, jasmine is in a dormant state, the potting soil water demand is less. If watering too much, jasmine root system in long-term non-aerated conditions, it is easy to suffocate and die.

　　3. Over-dry potting soil

　　If you don’t water for a long time, jasmine will dry up and die.

Jasmine

　　Second, winter potted jasmine maintenance methods

　　According to the growth habit of jasmine: the soil is rich in organic matter, and has good water permeability and aeration, according to the jasmine like wet, not drought, afraid of stagnant water, like the characteristics of breathable, master the watering time and watering amount. Potted jasmine should generally be changed once a year to change the pots and soil, jasmine like fertiliser, especially the long flowering period, need more fertiliser. Jasmine does not tolerate low temperatures, cold resistance is poor, in addition to South China and Fujian can be planted in the courtyard, the region are for pots, every frost, before winter, all the jasmine moved indoors for the winter. Specifically introduced as follows:

　　Jasmine for the first time in the room should be placed in a well-ventilated, sunny place. Before the arrival of the cold, available plastic film bags with pots set, preferably along the edge of the pot with lead wire, small bamboo rods, etc. Tied into a bracket, and then covered with plastic film bags. During the day put near the window sunny place, to avoid the north-west door and window, do not make the north-west wind blowing. At night, move the pot plant away from the window and put it in the warmest place. When the temperature rises above IO ℃, the plastic bag should be untied in time for ventilation. It is best to maintain the temperature at night at around 5°C – 8°C. In short, as long as it is kept above O℃ and the potting soil is not frozen, it is possible to overwinter safely.

　　Watering during the overwintering period is the key to the success or failure of maintenance management, in principle, as little water as possible, no more fertiliser. The amount of watering after the room should generally be reduced by 30% to 40% than in the open air. Specifically according to the plant growth strength, size and texture of the pot and other differences. Always wait until the pot is dry and the leaves are soft before watering. The water temperature should be slightly higher than the soil temperature. Watering time is preferred around noon. Nearly out of the room before (before the Qingming Festival out of the room) as the temperature rises, the plant transpiration increased, the potting water evaporation increased, watering should pay more attention to this time, both to prevent dry, but also to prevent moisture, to master the “wet with dry” principle, can not wait until the pots are dry and leaves are soft to water.

Jasmine

　　Prevention and control of pests and diseases: pest jasmine is often borer moth larvae and shellfish, red spider infestation, often eating flower buds, available universal powder or permethrin with 200 times water to stop spraying, spraying every half month, that is, there is no pests and diseases should also stop spraying to prevent in the first place, spraying work (very valuable) to sunny at 9 p.m. and 4 p.m. is appropriate, the middle of the night and the hot sun should not be sprayed, to prevent drug damage.

　　Flowering maintenance: do not spray water on the flowers during the flowering period, to prevent delayed blossom and fragrance fade, rainfall should be potted jasmine moved to the rain shelter. As long as jasmine is properly maintained, potted jasmine can bloom three times a year. If it is under-fertilised and does not have enough nutrients, it will not flower again after one bloom. If the management is in place, it can bloom non-stop from the end of May to the beginning of November, which can greatly improve the ornamental benefits.

　　In short, breeding jasmine is not so difficult, as long as regular pruning, the right amount of sunlight, fertiliser and water control, and eventually see the jasmine will not let you down.

Periwinkle

　　Periwinkle, also known as marigold, is also known as five-petal plum because it looks like a plum flower and the flowers are made up of five petals. Its special feature is that the flowers are multi-coloured and the flowering period is relatively long, which makes it more popular for people to cultivate and enjoy. In addition to ornamental periwinkle also has a high medicinal value, is an indispensable component of traditional Chinese medicine. It can be seen that the periwinkle is used so widely, then in the breeding of periwinkle during the need to pay attention to what? The common periwinkle leaves yellow exactly what causes it?

　　First, the reason for the yellowing of periwinkle leaves

　　1. Soil alkali

　　Periwinkle is not very demanding on the soil, but avoid alkaline soil, planting periwinkle with alkaline soil will lead to yellowing of periwinkle leaves and non-flowering. Solution: Test the soil for acidity and alkalinity, and treat the soil if it is alkaline.

　　2. Poor soil permeability

　　Poor soil permeability is also the cause of periwinkle leaf yellowing, many people choose to plant periwinkle soil viscous, water permeability, poor permeability, which makes in the short term to see what the problem is, but a long time, the poor permeability of soil permeability caused by the lower part of the root of the periwinkle poor respiration, resulting in frequent yellow leaves and leaf drop. Solution: Choose sandy soil with good drainage properties to plant, and also pay attention to not watering too much.

　　3. Too much watering

　　Periwinkle avoid humidity and fear of flooding, potting soil watering should not be too much, otherwise it will affect the root respiration and cause the old leaves yellow, new leaves tender yellow. Solution: Strictly control watering to dry for good, pay attention to drainage during the rainy season.

　　4. Underwatering

　　Periwinkle watering too much can not, too little also can not, watering too little or long-term water is not watered thoroughly, the plant can not absorb sufficient water, the new leaves will wilt, and the old leaves yellowing off. Solution: pay attention to watering, potting soil can be watered after drying, watering to water through.

　　5. Too much fertiliser

　　Many people grow flowers at home when long worried about the lack of fertiliser blooming is not good, occasionally get a little fertilizer or what to put inside the potting soil, hoping to absorb more flowers, in fact, too much fertilizer is too thick will cause the root of the root of the burn and damage the root system, the whole periwinkle wilting, slow growth, flowering less, petals become smaller. Solution: periwinkle can take a compound fertiliser and liquid fertiliser alternating between the application method, other times do not just fertilize.

　　Periwinkle flowers colorful, long flowering period, is one of the most favorite embellishment flower varieties, spring flower leaves yellow solution are introduced to you, I believe you can also raise a pot of high-quality periwinkle to beautify the home.

Periwinkle

　　Second, the precautions of breeding periwinkle

　　1. Sufficient light

　　We know that for positive plants, it is so important to have sufficient sunlight exposure, and periwinkle is such a sun-loving flower. Whether in its growing or flowering period, sufficient sunlight exposure is essential, if the lack of sunlight, will only lead to periwinkle futile leaves do not bloom. Even in the cold weather stuff, try to put it indoors in a brighter place to breed.

　　2. Good control of water and fertiliser management

　　Periwinkle is sun-loving and afraid of humidity and waterlogging, usually the amount of watering should be more control, if encountered rainy days, try to turn it indoors, if you can’t move indoors, to do a good job of open-air breeding of the drainage work, otherwise it is easy to lead to the death of the periwinkle rot. Fertiliser can be applied every ten days by alternating between compound fertiliser and liquid fertiliser. The bottom of the periwinkle potting soil should also try to lay a layer of base fertiliser to ensure the nutrient content of the potting soil.

　　3. Proper pruning and centring

　　Whether or not to remove the heart of the periwinkle on its own growth does not have a great impact, but seedlings can be removed once or twice during the heart, it will make its plant shape become more beautiful. Usually also need to do a good job of pruning periwinkle, old and weak residual branches should be cut out in time, or both affect the overall beauty and white consumption of nutrients.

　　4. Prefer high temperature avoid low temperature

　　Periwinkle growth of the environment can be slightly higher temperatures, low temperature is very unfavourable to it, at least during the day to be more than fifteen degrees, otherwise it is easy to let it stop growing, if it is in the cold north, to ensure that the indoor temperature of the night is often more than five degrees, otherwise the periwinkle will be frostbite.

　　In order not to affect the flower enthusiasts to enjoy the periwinkle as well as not to affect the extraction of herbs, we must pay attention to the changes of the leaves in the process of cultivating the periwinkle, because the changes of the leaves are also dependent on the perfect blooming of the flowers.

　　Summer is the high incidence of succulent black rot season, not only black rot, summer can be said to be succulent disaster season. Because the pathogen of black rot is a fungus, and its pathogen’s suitable growth temperature is 27-32 degrees Celsius, so it occurs in the summer after the rain and overwatering. Once found succulent black rot must be dealt with in a timely manner, otherwise it will easily be necrosis of the whole plant or even infected to other plants in the same pot.

First Love

　　Black rot, mostly caused by rotting bacteria. Mostly occurs in the summer high temperature succulents dormant period when the resistance is low, there is no special effect drug can solve this problem. Black rot does not only occur in succulents, other animals and plants are also possible. It’s the same reason that food tends to get mouldy in summer and animal wounds get infected easily.

　　Some people compare black rot to cancer, early treatment, mid-term amputation, late on the good food and drink, in fact, it is more like a plague, the development of cancer takes time, and black rot, in the case of the conditions necessary, a day to rot through.

　　Succulent black rot, generally by the “Fusarium sphaericum” this fungus caused by (different plants of black rot disease-causing fungi are not necessarily the same), Fusarium sphaericum is a class of both infected plants and can survive in the soil of the parthenogenetic parasitic fungi. Like other plant pathogens, there is subspecific differentiation and it can infest many plant hosts. It is not unique to succulents, in fact, more than 100 plant wilt diseases such as melon, lycopene, banana, cotton, legume and flowers are associated with it, and a search on the internet reveals that Fusarium spinosum has even led to an extinction crisis in bananas.

　　And for succulents summer black rot, from Europe and the United States to Japan and South Korea’s greenhouses have no special treatment. Advanced some, with water curtains or industrial fan cooling, targeted hit a few kinds of fungicides (cooling after sealed medicine steam). Small shed owners are also blowing fans, playing broad-spectrum antibacterial drugs. But no matter which way, injury busy or inevitable occurrence, just more and less difference. Of course, it’s not that the medicine is completely ineffective, it’s just that for black rot (because there are so many pathogens), it’s not as effective. As an example, you may die 50 plants out of 1000 before dosing, and 45 after. And that ratio is negligible when you put it on an old folks home succulent. Moreover, if you use ventilation and cooling methods, the results achieved are obviously better than dosing, so instead of spending money on medicine that you still don’t know how effective it will be, it’s better to blow the fan more often.

First Love

　　There are also questions about the contagiousness of black rot, first of all, black rot is contagious, but it does not mean that it is necessarily contagious. It is a matter of the individual resistance of the plant. That’s why, sometimes, the plants in the group pots, A has rotted all the way through, B is alive and well, while C, which is far away from them, also rotted.

　　To sum up, black rot of succulents in summer is the law of nature, the best of the best. Death is inevitable. Everyone’s family planting meat more or less will have the body of the insect (eggs) brought in, be diligent, wash the roots and carefully check before entering the pot, into the pot you can play some medicine (a variety of agricultural drugs on the market on mealybugs have an effect, such as chlorpyrifos, etc., please be careful with the use of), summer will be more ventilation and cooling. It will minimise the black rot, and if it still dies, there is no way out 🙂 there is no reason to grow flowers without dying.

　　About mealybugs medicine: very cheap chlorpyrifos is very effective against mealybugs, there are many others, including mealybugs with some surfactants are also very effective, there are many horticultural medicines of poor quality, some of them are placebos, some of them are effective, but the additives of the ingredients are problematic and not very effective. You can try to add some active agent, pesticide shops usually have. (But it is not necessary, because it is so troublesome and direct insecticide, itself is very cheap)

　　Regarding the black rot but not rotten, you can use a sterilised blade to dig out as many rotten parts as possible, and it’s best to dig out some of the ones that aren’t rotten, because it’s possible that you won’t be able to tell if you’re infected with the fungus or not.

　　Black rot is a problem encountered by almost all novices and veterans alike, and it can only be dealt with by timely “beheading”. Therefore, the most effective way to prevent black rot is to improve the environment.

Cinnabar

　　Cinnabar is also known as trumpet flower, red flower even, pair of even and so on, because the appearance is like the orchid, so also has the “gentleman red”. It is a very good living room, balcony, garden landscape potted plants, is now widely used in countries around the world, but this flower breeding improperly susceptible to erythema disease can not grow normally, serious cases can lead to erythema can not bloom until death. So what are the causes of erythema? Flower friends should be how to prevent and control the disease?

　　First, the onset of the law

　　The pathogen is a fungus in the Narcissus big brown spot fungus. The fungus mainly remains on the dry diseased leaves at the top of the bulb. When the bulb sprouts, the new leaves are first infested, and then through the rain splash, spreading and spreading. Open field planting density, humidity is too large, the disease is serious. The bacterium also harms daffodils, Manjusri, monarchs and other flowers. Therefore, when the red and daffodil are planted next to each other, the disease is serious.

　　Pathogen

　　The pathogen is Stagonospora curtisii.

　　Symptoms

　　Red spot disease mainly affects leaves and flower stalks. The middle or edge of infected leaves produce fusiform to long ulcerated spots, 0.6-1.2 cm wide, up to several centimetres long, light red to vermilion spots, the central part of the later part of the slightly sunken into brown soft rot, but the edge is still maintaining the obvious red. When the weather is humid, white or grey-brown filaments or dark brown dots appear on the diseased part. Diseased leaves are deformed.

　　When the pedicel is infested, it cannot grow upward normally, but bends to the side of the diseased part, sometimes almost at right angles to the main stem. Severe infestation, the pedicel dry, can not flower, petals and bulb scales also produce red stripes.

　　When Vermilion is injured, its injured tissues often turn red. Identify whether the infestation of erythema, can be affected tissue by humid culture, if the production of dark brown dots and out of the wax-red granules, can be diagnosed as erythema; on the contrary, is due to injury.

Vermilion red blotch disease diagram

　　Prevention and control methods

　　Strengthen the cultivation management Select disease-free bulbs as propagation materials, and should remove the outer skin of the bulbs. Keep good ventilation and light transmission conditions between plants. Watering should not be too much, preferably not directly on the leaves and flower stalks, to avoid water retention in which too long, resulting in the onset of a humid environment. Once found diseased leaves, diseased stems should be removed and destroyed as soon as possible.

　　V. Pharmaceutical control

　　Regular spraying of Guoguang Yintai (80% Dyson Zinc Wettable Powder) 600-800 times liquid + Guoguang Si It Ling (amino acid chelated a variety of micronutrients of foliar fertiliser), used for the prevention of the disease before the prevention and supplementation of nutrients, to improve the ornamental properties;

　　At the early stage of disease, spray 25% miconazole emulsion (such as Guoguang Bixin) 500-600 times liquid, or 50% polymanganese zinc wettable powder (such as Guoguang Yingna) 400-600 times liquid at the early stage of disease. Use 2-3 times in a row, with an interval of 7-10 days.

　　In fact, flowers in the early stage of the disease we are completely able to detect, because plants and animals are not the same, some animals are sick when they like to hide the disease, not careful master is really difficult to detect, but the plants are not the same, they will have some manifestations of the disease. Therefore, when we are cultivating Viburnum, we only need to pay a little attention to it every day, and then we will not have the problem of erythema.

Chrysanthemums

　　Chrysanthemum wilt is an epidemic that mainly affects the base of chrysanthemum stems, and it is highly contagious as well as harmful. The incidence of the disease is not high, but once the plant is infected, it wilts and dies quickly, making it a contagious disease that you can’t do anything about, and prevention is the mainstay at this point in time. The following focuses on the ins and outs of chrysanthemum wilt.

　　I. Pathogen

　　The pathogen is Erwiniachrysanthemi, a bacterium.

　　Symptoms

　　At the beginning of the disease, the leaf colour becomes light yellow, wilting and drooping, and the base of the stem becomes light brown, the vascular bundles become brown when dissecting the base of the stem, and the vascular bundles of the upwardly expanding branches gradually become light brown, and the downward expansion causes the outer skin of the root to become necrotic or blackened and rotted, and the base of the stem is cracked in some cases. When the humidity is high, white mould is produced, that is, the mycelium and conidia of the disease. The expansion of the disease is slow, some plants on one side of the branches and leaves become yellow and wilt or rotten roots.

　　Third, the onset of the law

　　Pathogenic bacteria survive in the diseased remains and soil, becoming the source of infection in the coming year. Pathogenic bacteria often spread with the attached hand and tools in pruning, centring and handling, from the plant wound invasion.

　　Characteristics of the disease

　　Mainly with thick wall spores in the soil overwintering, or a longer period of putrefactive life. In the field, mainly through the soil with bacteria and from the diseased plant to take cuttings propagation or irrigation water transmission, but also with the diseased soil blowing to distant places by wind. The developmental temperature of the fungus is 24-28℃, the highest 37℃, the lowest 17℃, and below 15℃, it does not develop. The fungus only harms chrysanthemums, and the dead plants will die in 2 weeks when the disease is in suitable conditions. It is easy to develop when it is wet or water-logged, especially when it is waterlogged after rain, high temperature and cloudy rain, too much nitrogen fertiliser is applied and the soil is acidic.

Chrysanthemum

　　V. Prevention and control methods

　　1. Promote the application of Bio-fertiliser or compost made by enzyme bacteria or rotted organic fertiliser.

　　Pay attention to the selection and breeding of chrysanthemum common varieties with strong disease resistance

　　3. Strengthen management, implement crop rotation; choose sandy soil suitable for drainage; reasonable irrigation, strengthen the management of planting ditches, and try to avoid over-wet fields or waterlogging after rain.

　　4. Reduce the source of infestation: pull out the diseased plants immediately and burn them centrally.

　　Chrysanthemums must be disinfected and sterilised in pots and soil before planting.

　　6. To select disease-free scions for propagation. When possible, establish and preserve disease-free mother districts.

　　7. In areas where the disease is more serious, soil and pots should be strictly sterilised. Avoid using old pots, old soil and non-rotted basal fertiliser. When transplanting seedlings, avoid injuring the roots.

　　8. At the early stage of the disease, apply 50% carbendazim wettable powder 500 times liquid or 50% thiophanate-methyl – sulfur suspension 800 times liquid, 10% Zhiwuling water 300 times liquid, 12.5% potent carbendazim concentrated solvent 300 times liquid, 50% lysimachlor wettable powder 800 times liquid, 50% fungicide king (chlorobromo isocyanuric acid) water-soluble powder 1,000 times liquid.

　　Although the probability of flower and plant disease is not very high, but the disease is also enough to flower friends to toss some, and the country has not yet appeared in the flower and plant clinics, not to mention the door to the flowers and plants to cure the disease. So it is important to prevent chrysanthemum wilt!

　　Green is office, home, restaurant and even shopping malls in the more common plants, because the green has a certain air purification role, so it is a kind of plants around us more often. But friends who have kept green know that green is very easy to yellow leaves, I will analyse for you in detail the causes and solutions to the yellowing of green leaves.

Green

　　First, the cause of yellowing

　　On the whole, the yellowing of green leaves, if it is water culture culture is mostly bacteria in the water, if it is soil culture culture may be the root in the rot, relatively speaking, hydroponic green than soil culture green appear yellow leaf probability is greater. Specific green leaves yellowing factors are watering improperly, light imbalance, fertilization is not correct, etc., the following small detailed analysis of the situation triggered by the three major factors of green leaves yellowing.

　　1, improper watering: watering too much or too little will cause the green water yellow, if there is a dark yellow leaf surface without luster, the new growth out of the tip of the shrivelled not long, may be too much water.

　　2、Insufficient water, leaf edge withered: If the water in the soil is insufficient, it will cause the leaf edge withered and dry yellow, and the leaves will fall off. Therefore, you need to water the greenery in time.

　　3, sunlight: green Luo like shade, strong light exposure will cause the flower’s leaf tip, leaf edge withered, and the sunrise part of the leaf will appear yellow spot. On the contrary, if the greenery is placed in the dark light and not ventilated place for a long time, then, the green leaves due to the lack of chlorophyll, it will lead to yellow, especially the new growth of the leaves will be yellow, at this time, you need to put the greenery in the shade in the light.

　　4, fertiliser yellow: greens breeding too much fertilizer, concentration is too large, or not lack of fertilizer may cause green gong leaves yellow, when too much fertilizer, green gong leaf surface fat and glossy, and the leaf surface view is not stretch, the old leaves now yellow off, can be reduced by flushing the fertilizer. Green gong lack of nutrients, fertilization is insufficient, it will lead to the foliage surface of the colour gradually fade to yellow, especially the root of the leaves will be the first Yellow and fall off. At this time, more fertiliser is needed.

green

　　5, the environment temperature: the growing environment of the green leaves requires ventilation and cool, winter indoor temperature should not be too hot, pay attention to ventilation, otherwise dry heat will also lead to yellow leaves, need to open the window and more watering, to ensure that the nutrients. It takes about 30 days for the greens to adapt to the new environment, during this period individual old leaves will appear yellow, this is a normal phenomenon, in the break-in period. At this time, do not be too anxious to take measures, such as the return to normal, green growth will flourish.

　　Solution

　　The solution to the yellowing of green leaves should be based on the cause of the yellowing to the right time to mediate. As the greens can be propagated by cuttings, each section of its root strength with a leaf bud, just take a section for planting can grow. So when the yellowing of the leaves of the green gongs is serious, you can remove the rotten roots and remove the yellow leaves and replant them, taking care to change to new water when hydroponically growing them. You can also cut off the branches and vines whose leaves are not yet yellow and replant them. In the process of planting, to bury two to three sections, hydroponic is also two to three sections, and should be in three or four days to change the water (with cold boiled water is preferred). Just plug planting should not be strong direct light, can be placed in a weak light position, 20 days or so newly planted green gongs will be rooted and grow.

　　Although it is not difficult to keep the green gongs, and the yellowing leaves can continue to grow, but the yellowing leaves of green gongs still have a certain impact on the ornamental, so, analyse the reasons for the yellowing of green gongs and deal with them as soon as possible for the next growth of green gongs is also of some help.

　　The breeding of succulents is more worrying is to encounter mealybugs, and mealybugs are mostly in the summer, this season is very important for succulents, many diseases also occur in the summer, if another mealybug harassment, then the health of succulents will be greatly affected. So how should you deal with the pesky mealybugs in the process of raising succulents?

Black Mage

　　I. Physiological habits of mealybugs

　　Succulents more or less, sooner or later there will be a little chance of mealybug outbreak, the reason is that the mealybug is too powerful is one of the three major prickly-sucking pests on the landscape (the other two are red spider and aphids), endangering a variety of plants, prevention and control is the most difficult, another point, mealybugs like this stuff hidden environment, branches and leaves are too dense, conducive to its survival and reproduction, succulent plant leaves is not just too dense, is simply too dense! The leaves of succulents are not only too dense, but also too dense, and it is only normal that mealybugs will target them.

　　Mealybugs generally occur 1 to 3 generations a year, a few 4 to 5 generations, before the transformation of worms into adults, there is often an intermediate period, the appearance of this stage of stagnation, and some even stop feeding, this time is the annual hibernation before and after the second is the end of May to the beginning of June. At this time, most of the worms are not long hatched, the body surface has not yet secreted wax, the shell is not formed, the drug is still easy to kill. Need to be sprayed every 7 days, 2-3 times in a row. Early winter is the best time to kill the eggs, with 1000 times 40% speed kill or 40% pure chlorpyrifos 2000 times the whole plant spraying, basically can guarantee that the mealybugs throughout the year will not be a big outbreak. If you can seize these three times to spray medicine has twice the effect with half the effort.

　　Mealybug treatment method

　　1、Physical killing method, with a needle, toothpick, tweezers, one by one, pick dead, suitable for harm is not very serious, in the stem parts or the back of the leaf some fat and big mealybugs. Of course, I will never tell you that there are N cockroaches behind a cockroach, I will only tell you that the mealybugs are more powerful, a female lays thousands of eggs, 2-3 generations a year, just like a game.

　　2, alcohol kill method, you can buy the kind of disinfectant alcohol in the drugstore, the concentration of 75% or more, you can use a brush dipped in the appropriate amount of alcohol and repeatedly wipe the infested parts, you can get rid of the mealybugs, and can get rid of ten clean, thorough, if the leaves are too dense, not good to wipe, you can directly use alcohol to pour the heart of the leaves of the serious parts of the damage, generally speaking, drenched in the will die, the observation of rubbing a few days, if there is still found to continue! Alcohol used, suitable for a few succulents, mealybugs have been flooded, leaf heart have been mealybugs dense.

Black Mage

　　3, spraying, I personally think the most effective is the national light mealybugs must be, but also used to protect the flower God, quick to kill (pesticide phosphorus), bittersweet such as low-toxicity insecticides, spraying the feeling is not clean, the national light mealybugs must be advertised to their own strong fumigation, infiltration, touch and stomach toxicity, can be through the mealybugs of the wax shells directly on the insect body to kill the worm, the adult worm, the egg also has a good effect on the prevention of. However, I use Kokou mealybugs must have appeared drug damage, it is recommended than the configuration of the solution than the use of the minimum concentration of the instructions a little lower, if you are not sure how much concentration is appropriate, you can configure a small amount of the first test with the Rainbow Jade and Ji Hazel Moon, as long as they do not produce drug damage, the other succulent generally will not have a problem. In addition to the configuration of the time can also take a small amount of alcohol, you can improve the effectiveness of control, especially on the mealybugs have produced resistance, spraying time is recommended in the evening or at night, to avoid just spraying too much light caused by drug injury or burns.

　　4, buried medicine, using the above method, basically can kill the mealybugs that can be seen, but most of the eggs of mealybugs are in the soil, hatching and then climbed up (so succulents purchased from the greenhouse, the soil is best to be discarded, the roots for the appropriate amount of cleaning), in addition to the bottom of the root there are also root pollen mealybugs. Burying will nip the mealybugs in the bud and also kill the root mealybugs that are not visible. If burying medicine, Furadan and Bayer Small Green Medicine are good choices. Take Furadan as an example, Furadan has the effect of endosorption, gastric poisoning and poisoning by touch, with strong poisoning and killing ability, long residual period, fast effect, no fear of rain and low cost.

　　It is worth noting that spraying and burying drugs are definitely harmful to the human body, especially furadan and Bayer’s little green drug, which are banned in some countries. As mentioned above, a small amount of mealybugs, in fact, does not constitute too much of an impact on succulents, so use it or don’t use it, you can make your own judgement.

　　There are many species of mealybugs, known varieties of more than 6,000, at present, for the control of mealybugs is still very difficult, but there is information indicating that mealybugs in the lower humidity of the environment the lower the survival rate is also very unfavourable to mealybugs, perhaps novice friends can also try this method to eliminate mealybugs.

　　Many people keep plants will pay attention to whether there is feng shui to pay attention to, in fact, succulents in the money string can also be feng shui plants to keep. The money string can grow very high, and the appearance of the ancient string of coins, so by the succulent enthusiasts of the favourite. The feeding difficulty of the string of money is not too difficult, but there are still novice friends will encounter the yellowing of the string of money leaves, this time how to deal with it? I’ll analyse it for you in detail.

money bunches

　　First, the yellowing of the leaves of the money string how to do

　　1, water yellow: caused by excessive watering, which is characterised by no obvious changes in the old leaves, the young leaves turn yellow, this should immediately control water.

　　2, drought yellow: caused by lack of water, drought, which is characterised by the bottom-up old leaves first yellow, if the water shortage time is a little longer, the whole plant will be yellow, or even death, should be timely watering.

　　3, fertiliser yellow: caused by too much fertiliser or too high a concentration; characterised by young leaves that are fat, glossy and uneven; fertiliser control, ploughing and watering should be carried out.

　　4, starvation yellow: due to insufficient fertiliser, low concentration of fertiliser, and fertiliser intervals are too long and caused; characterized by young leaves, young stems at the first yellow, such as this phenomenon is not timely fertilization, but also cause the whole plant yellow leaves or even death; on the lack of fertilizer flowers, do not once a large number of fertilizer, in order to avoid causing root burning.

　　5, is iron deficiency yellow leaves. Woody flowers in the greenhouse, etc., due to changes in soil fertility conditions, often appear yellow leaf phenomenon, characterised by young leaves obviously, old leaves lighter, yellow leaf flesh, green veins, and the formation of a typical network; can be applied to solve the ferrous sulphate water solution, the method is: 7 cake fertilizer, ferrous sulphate 5, 200 water with a doubled solution to water it.

Money bunches

　　Second, the money bunches breeding attention points

　　Money string flower should be frequently pruned and shaped, cut the overly chaotic branches, in order to maintain the beautiful shape of the plant. As the stems of the old plants are easily hollowed out, so that the fleshy mouth ten shrivelled and fell off, thus causing the lower part of the plant to have no leaves and appear bare, which is very unattractive, new plants should be propagated and the old ones should be renewed. Money string flower growth is too crowded when you can change the pot in the spring or autumn, planting pots should be selected according to the size of the plant, pots are too big or too small are not conducive to its growth, and pay attention to consider the beauty of the pot. Potting soil requires loose and fertile, with good drainage and permeability, can be planted with a mixture of humus, garden soil, coarse sand or vermiculite culture soil. In addition to separate pots ornamental, can also be matched with stones, made of succulents small bonsai, but also with other varieties of succulents planted in a pot, made of small combination of potted plants or vase landscape, horticultural landscape box.

　　Spring is a good season for money string culture, not only the money string grows faster in winter, the Spring Festival in the home placed a money string is also a very good sign. The money string can not only be planted as a small potted plants, can also be used in floral design, select the special pots and a little ingenuity can be presented in different styles, but also let it climb on the wall or tree trunks to beautify. With its easy-to-manage characteristics, it is also a good choice for novice gardeners to start with.